Cambodia is just a sideshow.
Or at least, that’s what some people (wrongly) seem to think!
‘The only great thing to see in Cambodia is Angkor Wat’, they say. And so they only visit on a quick detour from their trips to Thailand or Vietnam.
They’re so wrong. Angkor Wat is magnificent, but there is so much more to traveling Cambodia. It’s a real shame to miss out.
For starters, Cambodia still has some of the prettiest islands in mainland Southeast Asia. In the Cardamom Mountains, it has one of the last unbroken rainforests in Asia — a vestige of wild elephants and tigers, and a wonderful ecotourism destination. But it’s rural Cambodia that especially rewards the curious traveler with its rivers, caves, rice fields, and charming little towns.
In this guide to backpacking Cambodia, I will share with you some of my favorite places, based on my two visits.
While it’s an amazing travel destination, it does seem Cambodia’s charm and natural beauty are constantly under threat by its horribly corrupt government. Conservation, sustainability, or human rights are not high on the agenda… to put it mildly. Some coastal places are also being taken over by Chinese casino development. This is especially true in Sihanoukville, though Kampot and some of the islands may be future victims.
I’ve written about my conflicted feelings about the country; it’s not governed well and a lot of short-sighted decisions are being made. As a visitor, you might not easily notice this negative side, but you can make a small but meaningful difference by supporting social enterprises and genuine ecotourism projects (a few are mentioned on this page).

Creating your Cambodia route
Considering the potato-like shape of Cambodia, you’d think it would be perfect for a circular route. Sadly, its road layout doesn’t quite cooperate with such plans.
The main transport arteries are between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (running north and south of the Tonle lake). Other main roads shoot off in different directions from the capital. This means that if you want to travel all over Cambodia, you might have to come back through Phnom Penh once or twice.
The map below marks some of the key travel destinations for backpacking Cambodia.
The central parts of Cambodia are very flat — just huge plains without much to grab your visual interest, besides the Mekong river. I like the southwestern part a lot as it has more mountains (and the islands as well of course). Combining Angkor Wat with southern Cambodia can easily keep you busy for 2 weeks or more, and I’d probably recommend focusing on these parts if you don’t have infinite time.
Many bus services operate between Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Battambang. Other destinations are often serviced only by minivans. They’ll get you where you need to be, though they are often totally crammed with luggage and passengers. On some routes, you’ll have to transfer between minivans multiple times, causing much delay. (The 4000 Islands in Laos to Phnom Penh route is notorious for this.) The only solution is to be patient and to take estimated travel times with a pinch of salt.
Places to visit in Cambodia
The following are just some of the must-see places in Cambodia. While there’s plenty to see off the usual paths, these destinations often end up in many people’s itineraries.
Angkor Wat
The temple complex of Angkor Wat is the undisputed highlight of Cambodia. Since 3D aerial laser scans were completed in 2016, the archaeological site is understood to have not just been the world’s largest religious monument but also a huge ancient city.
Angkor Wat is massive. The much-photographed main temple is just a tiny part of the 400-square-kilometer site. If you have the time, it’s worth getting a 3-day pass.
Many travellers come to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Just to set your expectations, it’s not so much a zen-like experience as it is a frantic festival of phones and drones, though it can be a really cool moment anyway. To avoid the crowds at sunset, consider any of these 34 alternative sunset-watching locations.
Whether you go for the Angkor Wat sunrise event at the main temple or not, it’s a good idea to have an early start when exploring Angkor Wat. In the early morning there are fewer people, as the tour buses have not yet arrived, so you can still wander the temples in relative peace. You’ll also avoid the searing midday heat if you’re there in the summer.
If you want to explore the larger area of Angkor Wat, be sure to rent bicycles or a tuk-tuk for the day. Ask your driver to take you beyond the standard circuits.
There are some outer-lying temples that can take 30 to 60 minutes to get to. They are not often visited by the larger tour groups. If you’re lucky, you can still be there alone hearing only the buzz of cicadas and the chatter of tropical birds. The outer temples are not as well-restored and are more overgrown by jungle, giving them a more gnarly and mysterious feel.
Angkor Wat can also be seen from the air in hot air balloons or on microlight flights, though this doesn’t come cheap (it’s $125 for a 40-minute balloon flight).
Other temples (besides Angkor wat)
A new road has put several other temples within easy day-trip reach of Siem Reap. It’s about a 2-hour drive to the Beng Mealea temple and the Koh Ker temple, a 30m tall pyramid-like structure rising high above the surrounding jungle. Even further afield is the Preah Vihear temple. It sits on top of a 525-meter cliff overlooking the border with Thailand.
You’ll either need your own transportation, or you can book private 1-day tours that operate from Siem Reap covering all three of these temples. Unlike Angkor Wat, you don’t need a costly permit for these temples.

Siem Reap
Since it’s the city nearest to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap inevitably became Cambodia’s main tourist destination.
Besides serving as a base for temple exploration, you’ll find numerous other tours and services here to keep you entertained. Cooking classes, pottery classes, quad bike tours, vespa tours, ziplining, massages, fish pedicures, gondola sunset boat rides… you name it, Siem Reap’s got it. When darkness falls, look no further than Pub Streetfor cheap booze and entertainment.
A common day-trip from Siem Reap is to visit a traditional floating village on Tonle Sap Lake. But if you do this, be warned.
First, compare the reviews of Chong Kneas floating village with those of Kompong Khleang floating village. Clearly, Chong Kneas is a cynical and exploitative tourist trap, while the latter actually helps the community and gives you a positive experience. Make sure you support the right kind of tourism by choosing Kompong Khleang.
Where to stay in Siem Ream (top picks)
$ hostel
Lub D Siem Reap
New top rated in Siem Reap, with swimming pool and amazing facilities. Dorms & privates
$$ boutique hotel
Angkor Pal
A bit of luxury still at budget prices (deluxe rooms for ~$20)
$$ B&B / hostel
The Cashew Nut Guest House
Nice private rooms with a cute tropical garden
Phnom Penh
Cambodia’s hot and dusty capital seems like a love-it-or-hate-it place. I think many travel guides often hype it up too much (e.g. by endlessly repeating the ‘Pearl of Asia’ phrase and other grandiose terms). I don’t get that excited by Phnom Penh myself, but it’s still a major city with a lot of things going on, and I do think it has its moments.
Most hotels and guesthouses are in a district just behind the Royal Palace. This area is a bit of a jungle of beer-brand signs and has a slightly sleazy vibe. But once you get out of this tourist ghetto, things get more interesting.
For instance, a walk along the river promenade will give you some excellent opportunities for people-watching. Not much happens there during the day, but at night this area comes alive with colored lights, street vendors, and people lighting incense sticks at a Buddhist shrine.
Phnom Penh has an interesting rough-edged feel for the most part. But with a rising middle class also come plenty of glittering new malls, sky bars, and cineplexes.
Young Khmer go out to places like Jet’s Container Night Market, an assemblage of hip neon-lit bars and restaurants built inside stacked cargo containers. Tourists instead favor the so-called Russian Market, a great place to get some cheap street food or to buy souvenirs.
Phnom Penh’s genocide museums
Genocide may not be your favourite topic if you’re here on holiday. Still, I think the two museums in Phnom Penh memorializing the Khmer Rouge atrocities are must-visits, as they will help you better understand the traumatic history of Cambodia.
The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum S-21 is a former school that was turned into a brutal prison during the Pol Pot regime. At the Killing Fields, people were systematically murdered in the most horrific ways. Both museums are intense and probably not for children. The self-guided audio tour at the Killing Fields can be particularly dark and viscerally upsetting. While difficult to digest, these museums are also extraordinarily eye-opening, educational, and essential for anyone visiting Cambodia.
Kratie
Ribboning along the Mekong river, this small town in northeastern Cambodia is a laidback place. It makes for an ideal stop for anyone traveling to Banlung or the 4000 Islands in Laos. But more than just a waypoint, it’s also a great place to visit in itself.
Kratie is favored mostly by independent travelers, thanks to its local character and easy access to rural areas. Its center features some crumbling French colonial buildings with arched verandas and a vibrant market area. Just across the water is the riverine island of Koh Trong, offering a lovely slice of rural Cambodia with cycling trails and floating villages.
Around Kratie you can visit many temples and basket weaver villages. The main attraction though are the rare Irrawaddy dolphins that live in the river about 20 km north. Unlike your usual flavor of dolphins, these don’t jump around! But keep your eyes peeled and you might just see them pop their heads above the surface.
By the way, the sunsets in Kratie are very pleasing to the eye. Don’t miss seeing those deep orange hues over the Mekong.

Consider staying in Le Tonle [Booking, Agoda]. It’s a restaurant and guesthouse that doubles as a vocational training center for underprivileged Khmer. It has several cozy wood-paneled guestrooms and serves good food. The staff is also totally delightful.
Cambodian Rural Discovery Tours is another social enterprise in Kratie. It offers dolphin encounters, homestays, trekking, and other experiences. All funds directly support local communities and conservation efforts.
Cardamom Mountains
The southwestern part of Cambodia contains one of the last unfragmented rainforests in Southeast Asia. The Cardamom Mountain region is a true wilderness where wild elephants still roam.
Not many travellers seem to know of it, but the town of Chi Pat provides an excellent gateway to the national park. An NGO-backed ecotourism project offers a wide range of trekking and jungle river tours from Chi Pat. You’ll also have the chance to experience local life in a Cambodian village.
Keep in mind that the money you spend here helps directly fund the protection of the forests. It literally makes the difference between people making a living as forest rangers or as poachers. I’ve seen some TripAdvisor reviews hyperventilating about how the 2-hour boat ride to Chi Pat costs — gasp! — ten dollars. But the slight premium you pay helps stave off illegal logging, poaching, and mining.
It’s a gorgeous nature reserve and ecotourism can hopefully keep it protected. While speaking with some of the guides, rangers, and cooks in this village, it really seemed to me like this project is making an amazing difference in a country where conservation is not usually a high priority.
Chi Pat is not the only entry-point into this region, but it’s one I used and recommend. You can read more about my fantastic 3-day boat trip and trek in the Cardamom Mountains.
Other nearby ecotourism projects include the Cardamom Tented Camp and the Wild KK Project, which operates further north closer to Koh Kong.
Kampot and Kep
These two small towns are often mentioned in the same breath, as they are just 20 minutes apart. They’re easily among my favorite places in Cambodia.
Kep is a sleepy seaside resort that’s infinitely more dignified and charming than Sihanoukville. Expect some wonderful sea views, but don’t expect too much of a beach — it’s sort of like a small municipal beach and the sand actually gets shipped in from elsewhere. The town is also a bit stretched out and without a real center. Still, there’s much to like here. Don’t miss Kep’s famous crab market!
Kampot is a riverside town with a lovely buzzing atmosphere. The downtown area is very lively, though there are also many quiet bungalows along the river just outside of town. I love Kampot and think it might be very underrated.
There are numerous things to do around Kampot & Kep. The region is known for its pepper farms and salt fields, and it’s home to many fishing villages, mangrove forests, and caves. Check out the guide linked to the left for more details.
By the way, Bokor Hill Station has changed a lot. If you plan to go there, you should also read the post linked above for details. It no longer has an abandoned hotel!
In Kampot, I stayed at Samon Village Bungalows [Booking, Hostelworld], which has bungalows on stilts by the river. It’s actually a few minutes out of town, but it’s in a lovely location. You can also eat in the restaurant which is right by the river, and watch all the boats with lights pass by.
I later also learned of a hostel with a mini-water park [website], which seems like a really fun and awesome hangout. Non-guests can also use the swings and slides for $7 a day. This can make for a fun day if you’re looking to take a break from all the sightseeing.


The Cambodian Islands
The scattering of islands off the southern coast is still blissfully underdeveloped. I think these are some of the best beaches and islands you’ll find in Indochina — more beautiful than those in Vietnam, and less crowded than those in Thailand.

But things can change quickly. I first visited Koh Rong in 2013 when the entire island had a real Robinson Crusoe vibe. Now that’s changed as Koh Tuch beach has become a kind of mini version of Koh Phi Phi with thumping music, booze buckets, and 24/7 partying. I guess you’ll either love it or you’ll hate it.
The party scene is limited to Koh Tuch beach though (which is about 10% of the island). Koh Rong is a whopping 10km across, so if you want a different ambiance you can find it on the other beaches.

In 2018, I stayed on Koh Rong Sanloem, which has an easygoing backpackers-and-bungalows vibe. The fishing village at M’Pai Bei has many guesthouses and shops, but it doesn’t have the best beaches. Consider the many other bays which have beautiful views and a more secluded feel.
Other smaller islands (that I haven’t yet been) include Koh ta Kiev, Koh Totang, Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) and Koh Thmei.
Keep your eyes on the waves at night; if you’re lucky, you can see bioluminescent plankton sparkling around these shores. It’s quite the magical sight.
One caveat: the snorkelling and scuba diving in Cambodia is categorically awful. It’s better to save your money and see the underwater wonders in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, or the Philippines.
Battambang
I sadly still haven’t been to Battambang. But it always gets great buzz, so I wanted to give it at least a mention here. Cambodia’s second largest city is known to be less commercial (so to speak) than Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Friends of mine raved about its many art galleries and remnants of colonial architecture. This blog has some nice tips.
By the way, there was an abandoned rail line near Battambang where locals would ride small improvised bamboo flatbed vehicles. This gave rise to the infamous Bamboo Railway tourist attraction. The original Bamboo Railway is now closed as the railway line got recommissioned. A brand new track was constructed just for tourists, but that of course removes all of its quirky authenticity.
Sihanoukville
So far this has been a list of top places to visit in Cambodia. But I’m mentioning Sihanoukville here lastly only to say that you won’t miss much if you skip it.
Sihanoukville (a.k.a. Snooky) is an ugly and uninspiring place. Once the domain of Western sex tourists, it’s now rapidly transforming into a Chinese gambling town.
I must admit, I had a great time celebrating New Year’s Eve here some years ago as a younger backpacker. It’s still probably a decent party town. But its beaches are lackluster at best, its waters are dirty, and it’s just — let’s be honest here — a wretched place devoid of any charm. Home to mafia and international fugitives, I doubt this will change anytime soon.
In 2018, the main strip of beach bars on Serendipity Beach was demolished to make way for casino hotels. Otres is still the nicest beach with a low-key backpacker vibe. It’s about 20 minutes out of town, though it too has been marked for large-scale development.
It’s a mystery to me why so many Cambodia itineraries see the need to include Sihanoukville at all! For a much better time along the coast, simply go to the islands or to nearby Kampot and Kep. If you’re looking to party, you will probably love the scene in Siem Reap.
Cost of travel in Cambodia
Just a few final notes on budgeting your trip. Keep in mind that while it’s very cheap to travel in Cambodia, prices are a little higher now than they were a few years ago. For a backpacker budget, probably aim for around $25 – $30 a day (not including Angkor Wat).
A ticket to Angkor Wat costs $37 for 1 day and $62 for 3 days (these are new prices since 2017). A dorm bed costs about $5 on average, with basic rooms starting at around $10. Most meals cost about $3 – $5.
You can read more in my Southeast Asia cost of travel overview.
Before you go to Cambodia I always recommend getting some travel insurance, even though it is an added expense. It won’t in itself keep you safe or healthy, but if you do get unlucky it can be a real life-saver — especially when you’re far abroad. Keep in mind any medical insurance you have at home will not work in Cambodia.
Get insurance for your trip
Travel Advice
Travel insurance will cover you for theft, medical expenses, cancellation, and more. Heymondo offers great coverage, COVID-19 included, zero deductibles, and an app with 24/7 assistance & doctor chat.
Some links may be affiliate links, meaning I may earn commission from products or services I recommend. You can read about my site policies.
Hi Marek,
thanks for all the impressions! 🙂 I am planning a 4 weeks journey in the end of February. I am thinking about Laos & Cambodia. I want to travel from south up north. Can you suggest a trip with some good spots to also fly in and out? How to pass the border between Laos & Cambodia?
Thanks and regards,
Dominik
I would suggest doing north to south, that way you can end your trip on a beach. Fly into Chiang Rai in Thailand or to Luang Prabang, then visit places like Nong Khiaw, Vang Vieng, Vientiane. Go to south of Laos and see the 1000 islands area, then Kratie, Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat, Kampot and chill on Koh Rong. Fly out from Phnom Penh or bus it to bangkok for many flight connections there. Just a suggestion of course 🙂
Thanks for this great article, been very helpful for me who just started planning for a potential 6-day trip today. I suppose it’s not practical to include more than 2 destinations, right?
BTW, on Google Maps apparently the container market is now closed?
Hey Ellyse. Depends what you mean by destinations… with 6 days I think you could definitely still hit up 2 places in Cambodia.
It does seem the container market is closed now. Things change quickly! I’ll update the article. 🙂
Thanks Mark, a very helpful and honest blog! 🙂
Hey, I really enjoyed reading your article. I’ve just driven a motorbike around Cambodia for 30 days. It was a blast. Unfortunately, didn’t have time to visit Sihanouk and Koh Rong because of floods, but that allows me to spend more time in other places. I’ll need to come back since didn’t have time to visit the east part of the country. Battambang was an amazing place, especially driving around the countryside and experiencing bat caves.
Excellent information! I completely agree that Tuol Sleng was a really important site to visit in Cambodia. I had a really hard time with it, but I’m glad I went. After visiting I read “Survival in the Killing Fields”, which is a difficult read but definitely clarifies a lot of what I saw at the museum.
Hi Marek,
Great guide as always, thanks! I’m heading to Cambodia from HCMC on November 2nd. Do you think 10 days is enough to travel Cambodia? Catching a flight to Australia from Bangkok on the 15th November..
As a route I was thinking Phnohm Penh – Kampot / Kep – islands – Siem Reap. Not sure how long to spend in each place or if this is a rational itinerary.
Any thoughts would be great,
Sammi
Hey Sammi. Yeah, Cambodia is not toooo huge so you can see quite a bit of it in 10 days and it’s certainly not an unreasonable amount of time. I’d recommend just a quick stop in Phnom Penh, and then Siem Reap for however long you want to check out Angkor Wat. Kampot/Kep and the islands are the best bits in my subjective view and worth allocating a few more days to 🙂
How do you make your map?
Many people ask that 🙂 I get existing vector maps and then edit them using Figma.
Thank you for this informating! I am finding it very helpful while planning my trip!
Incredibly helpful guide, with places I haven’t even heard of before! Will definately consider going to Chi Pat and Kratie as well during my trip to Cambodia. How did you find the food experienc in Cambodia? I have read mixed things about it 🙂
Glad it’s helpful Niclas! I’m also a bit ambivalent about the Khmer food. I like Thai, Vietnamese and Laos food much more though it’s not like Cambodia is culinary torture either. It’s always a good idea to ask for local tips for restaurants. 🙂
Hello Marek,
I appreciate your article pointing out to support the local people. I see in the comments that many people are wondering if it is a safe place to travel, especially for a single female. I see that you use a service to show places to stay. But I hope that maybe if people ask you for a recommendation, you would come and stay at my hostel so you can make a recommendation to others who ask. You can check my websites and I hope you can visit on your next trip. https://AlisHouseSR.wordpress.com or https://facebook.com/AlisHouseSR
So nice to come across this page as I am currently planning (as soon as vacation is approved) to visit Cambodia later this year. I have always wanted to come and finally see Angkor Wat but no one is interested or they said they’re busy.
Hi Marek,
So nice to come across this page as I am currently planning (as soon as vacation is approved) to visit Cambodia later this year. I have always wanted to come and finally see Angkor Wat but no one is interested or they said they’re busy. My main question is, for a single traveler, is it safe to go there? Anyway, I’m still planning to join tours for convenience. Any tips?
Hey Carmela. Glad it’s useful to you! There are many solo travelers in Cambodia and it’s generally quite safe. I believe Phnom Penh has a bit of a reputation (for bag snatchings mainly) but on the whole it’s not a country to be particularly worried. Plenty of tours available everywhere… they’re easy (and cheap) to book locally.
Hey Marek,
you are talking about some less-visited temples in Angor, 30 to 60 minutes away from the main temples. It would be helpful if you could reveal some of these locations you’re talking about.
Thanks a lot and great blog, super helpful! 🙂
Hey Serge! I’m actually a few days away from totally updating this page. 🙂 There’s many… two examples are Ta Nei or Banteay Srei. Further away are ones like Koh Ker and Beng Mealea. These are actually not part of Angkor Wat but approx 1 hr from Siem Reap.
Thanks a lot for the information.. It will be our first backpacking trip and I’m like the only one organising it cause my boyfriend isn’t a big help haha..even an all in is big trouble for him so thanks a lot.. I’ll need this =)
Glad it’s proving useful to you (and by extension your boyfriend!). Be sure to come back in a few weeks as I recently went back to Cambodia and will be updating this page 🙂
Hey Marek,
Fruitful info about the place bud. I am planning for a solo trip to Combodia. Would you suggest how safe it is for a solo female travellor and whats the overall budget for a week.
Thanks in advance.
Karthika
Hey Karthika. Cambodia is quite safe with few incidents of crime. Read up on possible scams though, and pay close attention to your belongings as always. Many women travel solo in Cambodia. I usually suggest about $30 a day (backpacker budget).
Hey! I will be going to Cambodia December 2017 as well! I will arrive the 22nd. Where should I begin to explore?
Hey Cristina. That’s so cool! Some of the most popular places are Battambang, Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat), and the islands around Sihanouksville. But on my next visit I’ll be checking out some less-visited ones, like Banlung, Kratie and the Cardamom Mountains…
Hi Marek,
We are also planning to travel these places soon, but we still have doubts about the best way to travel them, do you recommend scooters, bus or maybe some other ways of transportation?
I recommend buses and minivans for moving between the major places, and scooters for local sightseeing. Central Cambodia is a bit dull for a road trip (a lot of straight roads and flat land) so I think it’s nicer to bus it there.
Big help. Planning to visit Phnom Penh next year. This one is helpful. Thank you 🙂
Great article, thanks for the tips! With the stunning temples of Angkor, moving historical sites like the Killing Fields, delicious food, colorful markets, and the mighty Tonle Sap, Cambodia is a joy to visit. However, there are numerous tourist targeted scams to be wary of http://travelscams.org/asia/common-tourist-scams-cambodia/
Do be wary of the visa scam, coin collectors, scam orphanages, Angkor Watt touts, incense/prayer scam, Tonle Sap floating village rice scam, milk/food beggar, pickpocketing, snatch theft, invitations to a local home for gambling, tuk tuk scam, rape accusation, fake police and many more!
A great intro to Cambodia! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and your wonderful photos.
Thanks man, this is a big help.
Btw. the “Tomb Raider Temple” is actually called Angkor Thom!
You’re Welcome!
do you know what’s the name of the shooting range at phnom penh nearby killing fields? can’t seem to find anything online.
Try searching for ‘Phnom Pehn Shooting Range’. Here it is on TripAdvisor.
To what extent is it realistic to backpack Thailand and Cambodia in 2 weeks?
I’d probably pick one area in Thailand (e.g. south or north, not both) to keep a compact route. It takes about 1 travel day to get from Bangkok to Siem Reap, and they do combine pretty well.
Thanks for your amazing blog! Helps me lots by planning my trip 🙂
Btw Marek, about the stacks of counterfeit money. It’s not exactly counterfeit money. You don’t buy those things. It’s for the death. People bought it and burn for the deaths.
Didn’t realise it was for funerals. Interesting! 🙂
Hey, I love your website. It’s SO helpful. One question: Is it necessary (or a good idea) to book hostels in advance for travelling in Cambodia (Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville, and Koh Rong) in June? I’ve heard of them having reduced prices for certain months, so I was wondering if there is a best time to book. Thanks a lot.
Sites like Hostelworld or Booking.com will show you the price based on your selected dates, so any seasonal price reductions should already be reflected here (i.e. there’s no advantage in waiting to book later). There’s almost always some accommodation available so you can definitely wing it, and without a booking you can sometimes negotiate over the price. But if you want to be assured of a bed in your preferred place (e.g. a hostel or guesthouse with a high rating) it definitely helps to book ahead. Good luck! 🙂
Definitely some quality tips here. Thank you for the suggestions and the easy-to-read style !
Great guide, thank you. Planning to travel to Cambodia for a few months in May.