When a fellow traveller I met at a trivia night in Nicaragua gushed about an intriguing destination in Panama that she loved, I found myself leaning in to take mental notes. Once she explained that El Valle de Antón was in fact “a village in a volcano” and showed us photos on her phone, I knew I had to add it to my Panama itinerary.
El Valle (as its name is often shortened) sits just two hours from Panama City, yet despite my initial research, it wasn’t on my radar until that conversation. Just a few weeks later, I found myself riding the rollercoaster-like mountain roads through the lush green jungle to El Valle. Truthfully, the 90-minute journey from Aguadulce took much longer than anticipated, since the views constantly evolved as the crater revealed itself around each sharp corner.
After spending several days indulging in arroz and patacones at roadside fondas, hiking to crater ridges and soaking in hot springs, I absolutely see why it’s worth the detour.
Here’s how to best experience Panama’s striking crater village — from its best hiking trails to hidden hot springs, and everything in between.
El Valle’s geography and location
El Valles’ setting is what grabbed my attention; despite having travelled extensively worldwide, this village seemed to be in a league of its own. Encircled by the walls of a 6km wide volcanic caldera, the village felt like it was suspended in its own ecosystem.
While El Valle may not be on many travellers’ radars, it remains a firm favourite with locals seeking a cool respite, especially those from places like Panama City, home to an indescribable heat I would come to experience.
At around 600m above sea level, El Valle experiences its own distinct microclimate, making exploration much more comfortable and enjoyable than other parts of the country. El Valle offers sensational vistas in every direction, which was even more apparent to me when I left a few days later on an unfamiliar road out of the crater towards Panama City.
It was clear that no matter how you entered or exited this place, your eyes would reap the rewards. The otherworldly landscape felt to me reminiscent of famously stunning destinations like Madeira or Hawaii, and the rolling green landscapes slightly resembled those of Ireland, my homeland.
The question most visitors ask is “What do we do here?’ and El Valle is a place I recommend to those eager to get deep into nature, like me.
Despite having my own set of wheels, El Valle was easy to navigate on foot and allowed me to explore hiking trails and waterfalls at a slow pace with my dog. Because of these fond memories of my stop here on my motorbike journey through Central America, I have some tips to share for making the most of your visit to El Valle.
El Valle de Anton opens up in wide, rolling views as you ride on your e-bike. You’ll slip into the valley’s lush corners and backroads without leaving your footprints. It’s a fun, eco-friendly way to see the valley and let the volcanic landscapes slowly reveal themselves.
Where to stay
Deciding on where to stay in El Valle will prove to be tricky, not because the area has few options but because it has so many. The village may be small, but it caters to everyone, whether you seek out nature-filled campsites, social hostels or perhaps a luxurious crater-edge retreat.
Personally, I chose to bunk down at Nature Green Eco Campsite, a place highly recommended by fellow camping/motorbike enthusiasts. I pitched my tent in the heart of their private jungle, and the minimalist setting amongst the trees made it a perfect place for me and my dog to relax and unwind.
The owner, who showcased a deep love for nature, took the time to point out the various sounds of animals and birds surrounding us, which could be heard throughout the day, as well as the nearby river, which my dog loved to swim in.
El Valle caters to all budgets, and here are a few options which could be the perfect fit for you and your travel style.
Highlights for first-timers or those short on time
El Valle offers more than most visitors can fit into a few days; in fact, I extended my stay as soon as my campsite owner began to list off the many things to see and do. Of course, if you try to do too much within a small window, it can leave you unfulfilled, so it is often better to pick a few exciting experiences.
If you’re short on time or visiting for the first time, I suggest prioritising these highlights:
Check out a viewpoint
There is no way you can visit El Valle without climbing one of the closest hills to see the crater village from above.
On my walk toward La India Dormida, I remember watching the morning mist lift to reveal the crater below. Unlike some hikes in neighbouring countries, this one was dog-friendly, which had an added appeal for me.
Even if you can’t complete the full hike, you can easily take a short walk up to the crater rim to catch a glimpse of the views below. The walk to the trailhead, which is just around 10 -15 minutes from El Valle centre, is easily accessible without a car.
Stroll through town
El Valle is a small village, so theoretically this won’t take long; however, there are plenty of photo opportunities and shops to browse along the way. The village is dotted with many cafes and restaurants, so take some time to grab a bite to eat and watch the world go by.
One of my favourites was Panadería Cano, a place that served delicious baked goods and had a spacious seating area to relax and enjoy a taste of the unhurried lifestyle. It was also very dog-friendly, which was a nice touch.
Wander down Millionaires Avenue
Millionaires Avenue or Avenue los Millonarios is perhaps one of the most intriguing streets to venture down. This street is lined with enormous mansions, either owned by ex-pats or wealthy Panamanians. This was a street I had stumbled upon on my way to the local hot springs, and I couldn’t help but take a detour to experience the Beverly Hills vibes, which I was certainly not expecting.
Interestingly, this name is not just slang; in fact, this is the actual name of the road, which you will see if you look closely as you enter the street. Of course, I couldn’t help but get a photo of this prestigious street sign.
Visit El Chorro El Macho Waterfall
This area is teeming with waterfalls and hot springs, but if you can only add one waterfall to your list, then make it this one.
Just a 30-minute walk from town, and with a $5 entrance fee, El Chorro Macho is easy to get to and is suitable for families or anyone who prefers an easy, relaxed walk rather than a strenuous hike.
This is the most popular waterfall in the region, with a drop of 35m, and your visit can be enhanced by spending time in the natural pool below. While I did not take the plunge, if you are seeking an adrenaline-filled experience, you can even opt to zipline above the falls, which offers great views.
Hike the La India Dormida Route
From what I had heard before my visit, this was a place that catered well to hikers. La India Dormida (the sleeping Indian) is the most popular hike here, which is why I opted to take on the challenge, with my dog in tow, of course. The most common trail access is at Piedra Pintada, just a 30-minute walk from town.
As well as experiencing epic views, I passed by waterfalls, forests and ancient petroglyphs along this short (3.2km/2 mi) but steep hike, making it well worth doing. Since I visited in February, the trail was not muddy or windy, but in the rainy season, great care should be taken on this route (more on the best time to visit later).
If you want another excellent option, you can also opt for Cerro Cara Iguana (a 20-minute walk to the trailhead from town), which I also enjoyed with my dog, and felt like being on the edge of the world. We embarked on the hike in the early morning (in February) and only met a handful of people.
El Valle’s best hikes
Let’s face it, the term “hikers’ paradise” is thrown around all too often these days, yet this is a perfect way to describe El Valle, as I came to learn.
While I did not get to experience all of the hikes El Valle had to offer, I certainly got to hear a lot about them, especially from Mario, the owner of the campsite I was staying at. This only made me more determined to make a return trip one day.
Here is a glimpse of some of the best hikes in El Valle:
| Hike (click for AllTrails map) | Distance | Duration | Difficulty | Terrain |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| La India Dormida | 3.4km/2.1 mi | 3 – 4 hours | Moderate | Steep/Uneven/Slippery |
| Chorro El Escondido (The Lovers Falls) | 3,2km/2 mi | 1,5 – 2 hours | Moderate/Hard | Uneven/Muddy/Well Maintained |
| Cerro Cara Iguana | 9.2km/ 5.7 mi | 4 – 4.5 hours | Hard | Steep/Rocky |
| Cerro Gaital Trail | 7.4 km/ 4.6 mi | 4 – 5 hours | Hard | Muddy/Steep |
Note that La India Dormida and Chorro El Escondido are different hikes but are connected, sharing the same starting point. Chorro El Escondido is a beautiful waterfall you reach while hiking the trail that leads up to the La India Dormida mountain. You can do a shorter hike to the waterfall or continue on the more strenuous route up La India Dormida for panoramic views.
Check the map below for the trailheads and other points of interest:
The best waterfalls & hot springs to visit
Beyond its diverse selection of hiking trails, El Valle is teeming with beautiful waterfalls and hot springs. I found this to be the perfect spot to relax and soak in some therapeutic springs after a long day of hiking, so be sure to add these to your itinerary like I did.
El Valle’s best waterfalls
- Chorro El Macho: This is the most famous waterfall in town. I chose to visit this one because it was highly recommended, and it was relatively quiet on a weekday morning, except for the sound of the trickling water and chirping birds in the trees.
- El Chorro Las Mozas: Consisting of several small falls and pools, Las Mozas is ideal if you are seeking a short hike (it’s just 2km southwest of town), rewarded by a shallow river that is ideal for cooling off. This is an even quieter option, but it is popular with locals, especially at the weekends.
El Valle’s best hot springs
- Pozos Termales: Being a village in a volcano, it is no surprise that the fertile lands around El Valle are mineral-rich, and so too are the waters. This local favourite, tucked away in the dense forest, steps from town, is the perfect place to relax and unwind, surrounded by lush Panamanian nature. You can easily combine a trip here with a walk down nearby Millionaires Avenue.
You can enjoy a hike to Chorro El Macho, the town’s most famous waterfall, take a refreshing dip in its natural pool, but the coolest way to make your visit memorable is an adrenaline-pumping zipline ride that glides directly over the waterfall.
From €65 on viatorDiscover the Culture in El Valle
El Valle blends indigenous traditions with a growing expat community. The Guaymí heritage is visible in local handicrafts, especially at the local artisan market in the centre of town, while the village’s melting pot of cultures can be seen in its wide range of cafes and restaurants.
It is because of this unique feeling that El Valle particularly appealed to me, and I could see why many were drawn to visit and even relocate there. I gravitated towards the market in particular to get a deeper sense of the culture and ended up picking up a few souvenirs to remind me of the trip.
While the artisan market is a great place to get a taste of the local traditions, it’s also a place to mingle with other travellers and practice Spanish with the locals.
You can also pick up fresh local fruit and vegetables here, and despite already owning an authentic Panama Hat from a previous trip, I was tempted to pick up another one. However, travelling minimally by motorbike doesn’t often allow for shopping sprees, so I held myself back.
Top Tip: If you are seeking a local food experience, you absolutely MUST go to the local “fonda” called Fonda San Jose. You won’t find many, if any, tourists here, yet this is where you will find the best local dishes at affordable prices.
How to get there
From its description, you may be forgiven for thinking El Valle is in the middle of nowhere, and perhaps hard to reach. Yet, this village in a volcano is just over two hours from Panama City.
Visitors can take a bus from the main bus station in Panama City (beside Albrook Mall), which departs every 30 minutes, or hire a car for more freedom and convenience. I travelled to El Valle by motorbike, which was certainly exhilarating, but next time around, I would happily take a local bus (the best way to integrate with locals) to El Valle and explore on foot.
The best time to visit
El Valle maintains a sought-after temperature, which remains between 20° C to 28° C year-round, meaning there is little difference in the seasons here temperature-wise. In saying that, the dry season is the ideal time for outdoor adventures, which runs from December – April, while the rainiest months are October and November.
I visited El Valle in February and can recommend this for being an ideal time for outdoor adventures, especially hiking and camping.
Top tips for visiting El Valle
Ever set foot in a place only to wish you’d known its secrets before arriving? Well, let me share with you some insider tips that can turn a visit into an adventure, even if you’re not travelling on two wheels.
- El Valle can be visited in a day or two, but if time is on your side, allow 4-5 days to experience the many activities, like I did.
- Try to embark on a hike as early as possible, not only because some routes close early (the Cerro Gaital trail closes at 2:30 pm), but because you can experience the mist as it lifts, before the temperature rises. This was one of my highlights in El Valle.
- Try to avoid the tourist-heavy restaurants, and seek out small, local “fondas” often located on back roads, which are also noticeably more affordable (especially if you are a budget traveller like me).
- Local menus often just write “comida” (food), which can seem confusing, but this is typically rice with meat, salad and patacones (fried plantain), so be sure to try the local dishes and see what others are ordering.
- Often, there will be a small entrance fee for local hikes and waterfalls, so always carry cash; you won’t find card machines there.
- Bird watching is a common pastime here, so pack your binoculars and a good camera if this is your chosen pastime. I heard and saw so many birds and reptiles, especially in the early hours at the campsite, so it is also a great place for general wildlife spotting.
- Like most of Panama, tap water in El Valle is generally safe to drink. But since water sources can vary, check with your accommodation to be 100% sure.
Where next?
So in the end, I can safely say that the fellow traveller I met in Nicaragua was absolutely right — El Valle is worth the detour. Whether you spend your days hiking to crater viewpoints, soaking in hot springs or mingling with the friendly locals, as I enjoyed a lot, this volcanic village offers a side of Panama most visitors never see.
El Valle proved to me that one trip is just not enough, and I eagerly await my next visit to tick off even more activities and adventures.
Explore further with our Central America guides:
- Panama Travel Guide: 7 Of The Best Places To Visit for more inspiration!
- Bocas del Toro Island Hopping Guide – the popular waypoint between Panama and Costa Rica
- The classic 1-week Costa Rica itinerary – for exploring Panama’s neighbor
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